October 2006: So Much Heaven, So Far From Home
Who said there’s only one heaven? Most places I’ve been, I’ve felt at home, instantly, sad to leave so soon.
Every new place I arrive, feels like I’m coming home.
Why choose just one? Why not exist in all.
The house in suburban Virginia, cozy bed, quality company, multiple meals at the local diner, catching up with a college friend I ain’t seen in years. Stayed an extra night, allegedly to avoid rain and destination-less 2AM driving. But ‘twas really the company that caused me to linger. Even coalesced to watching an episode Project Runway, indulging my friend’s guilty pleasure, between more engaging, intellectual and emotional conversation. I predicted who’d be forced to leave the Island. Virginian suburbia, oddly, seemed more soulful than its South Floridian counterpart.
Days in NYC. Coffee-shopping in the village. Despite gentrification, you can still feel the ghosts. At the 24-hour Esperanto. Somehow, though I’ve never been there at 4AM, it’s comforting, sitting there for hours in broad daylight, to know that I could be. Repeat waitresses, amongst the 17 3/8th females I’ve fallen in love with, and these just with a mere smile and a couple cups of coffee. Baristas break my heart. Repeatedly. Stuck around another day, just to sit, write, read, watch, talk, be. Never want to leave. Stuck around yet another night. Just to Gypsy-King it. Each new friend feels a soul-mate, or at least an anciently kindred soul.
Then there was the Rural Liberal Arts school in Vermont, a time-warp three or four some odd years back (though I, myself, never attended such a small school). A chance to do it over (isn’t everything an attempt to recreate, relive, try again). The frat-like party I’d never been caught dead at during my own college years. We’ll chalk the delayed indulgence up to an experience I missed years before on account of earlier/alleged integrity. The collegiate company, community. The open-ness and ease. And conversation. Drunken nonsense betwixt and between intellectual posturing, which is still more comforting, after all this time, than the more inane talk (or lack of talk, altogether) of other geographies. Instant friends, though four to seven years younger. Still in the bubble, not yet jaded in full.
Fall in full bloom (is that incorrect, or oxymoronic…as fall is the start of de-blooming. Odd how the slow start of dying, of decay, can be so beautiful.)
I could live here. Stay here forever. Or at least a while longer. But once moved on, I don’t miss it too much. This or the other places. Perhaps it’s my chameleon nature, an ability to adjust, to embed, ingrain, so quickly. That makes me long not to leave, but not lament leaving, once I’ve left. Maybe its just restlessness or some sort of spiritual scale-balancing to a year in my hometown. Wondering if I’ll ever find myself settled or stationary (at least, contendedly so) for longer than a week, a month, a year at most.
My cases keep breaking, threatening slowly to destroy what’s protected in side. And while I couldn’t afford to replace the guitar, or the laptop, if it came to that…I also can’t afford to replace the strapless bag or increasingly cracked case. Broken zippers. Contents exposed. Even the handles are tearing slowly. Ranks, levels of protection, being worn down. There’s a metaphor here, I know it. Just not sure what it is. Still, I’m holding on.
I have an instant crush on girls who sit legs crossed, Indian-style on chairs in coffee-shops, restaurants, at the theater. Legs upon legs. Limbs over limbs. Knee pulled up to chest. Other on the seat. Foot tucked under thigh. With a yogic ease and outward disregard that melts my heart.
The apparently homeless, or at least ragged, Spanish kid at the subway turnstile in New York. 116th Street Station. Like playing three card monte, a dance with empty MetroCards, a pattern, a scientific code, or pure random luck. Swiping others in for free. Charity or some sort of game, mere amusement. Lending a helping hand, paying it forward, balancing his personal karma in an illegal but oddly generous way. A secret nod of his head, when I discovered my own card empty. Granting passage. And asking nothing in return.
A return to the quaint CollegePerk CoffeHouse in Maryland. A returned invitation to Rob and Heather, IlyAimy, who I’ve once again synchronously aligned with, geographically and otherwise. This time on their home turf. We’ll share the stage and share the evening. It’s a plan.
Half-way through my first set, Rob joins in on guitar. The joy of collaboration. Not indulged in often enough by me as solo-troubadour. The artistic humbling by others, far more adept at their instruments, at their improvisational musicality than me.
And, as I set in on my Dirge, solo and a capella, as always, lo and behold, Heather appears, as if materializing, sonically and physically, right next to me on stage. A pre-rehearsed harmonic surprise. A genuine gift, really. It’s beautiful. I’m moved to watery eyes by the kindred gesture.
If only I had the musical dexterity, after 20 years of playing, to reciprocate. Alas. I’m a hack. But a grateful and humbled hack.
“A song a day keeps the doctor away…that’s what I say, anyway.” I wish I were as prolific as the gray and bearded, dusty beatnik.
On the street. Burlington, VT. The central strip, benches, book stores, boutiques, and sidewalk cafes. Europe meets Ben and Jerry’s. I sit, taking it in, guitar case underfoot. And I’m spotted, by a kindred spirit, scouting out some prime-busking real estate.
An older soul, mid to late 60’s I imagine…or merely worn (and at once, enriched) by experience. Jon. Former Saw Mill worker. But the mill ain’t runnin’ no more. Out to play the evening, not for the money, but for pleasure, for practice, for pure passion. “I worked a full day today, so I ain’t got no need for the dough.” Missing a fair couple of teeth. 9 o’clock shadowed and grey. Spoke fondly of Dylan, a demigod. His own songs very reminiscent of Bob, early, rough, and raw. “I write one song a day. You know what they say…”
Ain’t had to sleep in the car yet. Ain’t had to shack up in a motel. Always a friend, old or new. And a couch, old or new.
Burlington. It came close. I’d even called a campground, to see about vacancies. And then I begged. Well, not really begged. But dropped mention - in an open mike set at Radio Bean - of my home-and-couch-less-ness. Three offers, off the bat. Of varying luxury. Of various intentions. One college girl volunteered a hardened floor, with an implied upgrade to a cozier bed, hers, I imagine. Her friends teasing her. Next to her generous message written on my mailing list (“I can put you up”), they had subsequently scribbled (“…and lay you down”).
I opted for the more kindred spirit, the compatriot rambler and fellow singer-songwriter, reminiscent of P. Simon, circa Scarborough Fair (why is it that we hate comparisons and categorizations, and yet, we always do the same, with more intended respect and awe than “You sound like John Mayer”…but, still, our minds need to associate). Had moved to Ireland for a girl. Had moved to Burlington, temporarily, for another - We are a community. A quiet community. Of dreamers. But there are more of us than earlier imagined - Up until 3am, if not later. Talking. Picking brains. Milking each other for insight, respective experience.
People are kindred and kind. Either on account of having been there, on the road, doing the same, needing the same kindness. Out of desire to be on the road and a knowledge of future need. Or an envy and respect for the freedom. For the wind and the tightrope that they may never know.
The unattainable waitress. Who seldom splits a smile. Every male customer falling in love by the minute. Thinking the rare smirk is for him, alone. Believing the occasional glance might be more than checking up on empty coffee cups. Baristas break my heart. I’ve made progress with a few. But, all in all, they remain untouchable. The object of my caffeinated dreams.
Mon Montreal
The Hyundai Elantra. 6000 miles in 6 weeks. My transport. My home. My closet. My cupboard. My library. My wardrobe. My storefront. My office. My home. My chosen home.
Miles before the Canadian border, the 45 Degree Line of Latitude is marked by a roadside sign. These measurements, in some ways real, in most ways artificial, intangible, altogether irrelevant, nonetheless try to impose some gimmicky order on general chaos. To satiate the tourist instinct.
Same goes for State and County Lines, which I cross with the seeming frequency of sidewalk cracks. Some occur in the middle of bridges, over rivers. Our attempt to fence things in.
A cell phone signal will literally switch to Long Distance Roaming mode within a mili-second of the Canadian crossing. Some lines, it seems, only relevant in so far as commerce and capitalism is concerned. Our attempt to fence things in.
My attempt to make such borders irrelevant.
In the Canadian Border Office. The stoic and skeptical immigration official, casts doubt on my fanciful reality, my chosen irrationality, as though he were a parent: “So, let me get this straight. You’re from South Florida and you’ve driven all the way up here, to play a free show at a small art gallery on a Wednesday night in Montreal?” Then, judgmentally, with elevated eyebrow, “Hmm.” Pause. “What kind of music do you play?” So cordial! Are we making conversation, now? Getting to know each other? Is he genuinely interested or somehow prying, aiming to catch me in some sort of lie. “Acoustic folk-rock. Jazzy. Bluesy. Singer-songwriter stuff,” I say, in all honesty, only half-casually, other half fearfully, navigating the waters. Though perhaps a portion of my earnestness is, in its earnestness, as though he actually cared, sarcastically, casually mocking. “Ahhh, I see.” He disappears away for a fair while. Researching my musical genre, perhaps, to confirm it exists (“What is this Folky-Rocky. Jazzy. Bluesy. You speak of?”)
Ultimately, he let’s me pass. Still stoic. Still unflinching. Smoking outside, watching, the two female customs officers, rubber gloved and all, check my vehicle. “So you’ve got CDs and T-Shirts you’re planning to leave behind in our country?” “Yes.” “How many?” “Um…” I actually start counting. Precisely, at first, roughly, as I continue. She sees the CD. My mane in all its alleged glory. “This is you?” “Yes.” She laughs. “How many you have? How many you planning on leaving behind?” “Um…about 56?” Then clarifying. “There’s probably only gonna be about five people showing up at the show, so have no fear!” No Shawn Snyder American Folk Invasion anticipated on this visit. “Only five people!” She kinda laughs. Scoffing, too?
“You’re good to go,” granting passage at last.
Ever the self-promoter, even at a border crossing, probably a stupid move: “Do you care for a CD?” One accepts, enthusiastically, “Sure!” The other declines and derides her co-worker with not so subtle eyes. Is this read as some sort of post-bribe, not a simple “Thank You, Have a Nice Day”. A mere epilogue, an after-thought. Is it seen as friendly or brash and cocky, on my behalf? Perhaps, in its earnestness, as though she actually cared, sarcastically, casually mocking. Though she seemed more sincere then the others. And they’ve already green-lighted me. I’ll hedge my bets.
Maybe my music will be playing in the office next time I cross the border. Maybe, on the other hand, I’ve jeopardized my future free entry into the country. As if my hair weren’t enough to make me twice-recognizable.
Montreal. First time cross the Canadian border. Shawn, the tourist. Walks the street and uses sonar to find the most appealing coffee house. Sits in it for hours, listening to French music, French conversation (eavesdropping without understanding a word, and yet it doesn’t seem to matter), reading, writing, thinking, facing the window, a cinema screen to the street, trying to viscerally gather the subtleties of this foreign coffee shop as compared to one in New York City as compared to one in San Francisco as compared to one in Melbourne. It’s a unique brand of tourism. Trademarked, perhaps. But far more fulfilling than postcard photo-ops and guided tours.
I want to go where I don’t speak the language. Where dancing is Dionysian.
Here there is activity seven nights a week. Here, a bar is not a means to an end. A drunken escape from the day to day. An attempt to drown out reality, drown out conversation, end up in the bed of another, with as little effort as possible. Here dancing isn’t a veiled courting technique, it’s purely Dionysian. It’s an all-out celebration of life. It can be done alone, on a crowded or empty dance floor, without the smallest trace of pretense. 18 year olds next to 80 year olds, casting no judgment in either direction. And in so far as it is sexual, as a side-effect, it’s only in so far as sex is also of the Dionysian, also a celebration of life.
A victory. This past week, Sunday to Sunday, I made more money off my music than I made in a two-week paycheck, after taxes, at my Substitute Teaching job last year. Less a testament to my financial success, I admit. And more a testament to my pathetic salary this past year. But, nonetheless, I’m encouraged and hopeful. I can make just as little money doing something I love.
I walk city streets trying to stare in the eyes of all passersby. Aiming for a small smile or a kindred kind of nod. An understanding nod. Like searching for a compatriot in the crowd, an old soul, an alien. As if mere acknowledgment were some sort of secret sign.
I find myself practicing AwShucks English. Apologetic Anglo. Perhaps that will endear me to the locals. I’m sorry to not speak French. Hell, I’m sorry to not be French when I’m up here. I drizzle my speech with poor attempts at incorporating the few phrases I’ve learned. Je un vwachoore, bebe. A pathetic pick up line?
I wake up in the bed of a beautiful French film student. In a house with three others. Funny, in heaven I don’t speak the language.
La Maison de Belle Etudiantes De Cinema…This exists? Slap me, please. I think I’m dreaming.
I choose naiveté. A chosen naivete. An opted for innocence. I know reality. I’ve seen it and lived it a fair bit. And I choose to be blissfully blind. I am driven by this belief that if I string together enough irrational, irresponsibly, impractical decisions and actions. If I’m driven solely by my gut in executing all of the above. That it’ll all work out. That I can live in my own reality. That I can be happy. It is also a core belief that life need not be stale, static. And then, even if I fail trying to prove otherwise, I fail trying ‘til the end.
Echoing in my head, silently off my lips, mantra-like, more convinced, more certain, with each repetition: “I refuse to live a normal life. I refuse to live a normal life. I refuse to live a normal life.”
Girls on the street scoff, skirt around the locking of eyes. What they don’t know is that I’m innocent, friendly, making eye contact with everyone, male and female, because that’s what I do. What I don’t know is that I’m making eye contact with everyone, specifically so that, deluding at least myself, my eye contact with the girls doesn’t seem as pointed.
It’s less and less apparent that I’ll end up with anyone in the end, at all. But increasingly apparent that, if I do, they likely won’t be American.
I’m completely lucid, but blissfully absurd. I’m completely lucid, but blissful. I’m completely lucid, blissfully absurd.
Why are we so open to life-experience, to meeting new people, to embracing diversity, and the world, and limitless possibilities when we’re backpacking. But this mindset doesn’t translate into static, back-home reality. On a personal, individual, subjective level. As well as a widespread cultural one.
A construct I apparently live in – problem is, most others don’t - The Shawn World, let’s call it, for trite simplicity’s sake - at present, and in hopes for some perpetuity, is like backpacking through life. Backpacking in my own backyard. Backpacking in my own country. I’ve no qualms about sleeping on a different couch every night. No longing for the four walls of a home base. Can’t imagine, at this point, that I will for a long time. I’m truly homeless, or multi-homed, or mobile-homed, if you will. I have no spiritual ties, save for familial ones, to South Florida. I’m aiming to dissociate altogether. Lamentably, as it’s where I grew up and where I was last, it’s where I have to claim to be from. At least in Australia I could say “San Francisco.” These days, I say, wherever I was yesterday. I guess in Montreal, I’m from Vermont. But, I don’t know where I’m from. Where I’d be from if I could choose. Where I identify the most. Turn up the Sexton soundtrack: “When I find that sweet home or at least a place I like to call home anyway…” (“And it’s written in the stars, steel bars, never will a prison cell make…”)
On the way back through the border, the American officer forges small talk as well. “What were you doing in Montreal?” “I’m a musician.” “Ah, what kind of music?” - Are we chitchatting, again? Are we making small talk? – “Original acoustic folk-rock, jazzy-bluesy. Trying to make a life out of it!” – “Really, how’s that going for you?” – Condescendingly? Do you care or are you trying to catch me in a lie. I’m so naive that, even for a moment, I’d think or at least like to believe the former.
Somewhere in Upstate New York, en route from Canada, back to Boston, I manage to receive my first ever-speeding ticket: 81 miles per hour in a 65 mile per hour zone. Though, I assure, it was a safe 81 miles per hour, as the highway was relatively empty, and the guy in front of me in the New York License Plated SUV was going at least as fast, if not faster. I insist that I was chosen for this ticket, instead of him, on account of prejudice and profiling…bohemically profiled…my out of town plates and my hippie-hair in clean-cut rural Upstate New York.
“Where you coming from?”
“Montreal.”
“Where you going?”
“Boston.”
“What were you doing up in Montreal?”
“I’m a traveling musician. I was playing a show.”
“Ah. Hmm. And in Boston, you’re playing a show?”
“Yes.”
“And you make a life out of this?” Condescendingly. This is a theme.
“So far. I’m trying.”
“Hmm. What kind of music?”
Small talk. This is a theme.
“Solo-Acoustic Soul-Folk.”
“Right.” And as though my genre were some kind of sequitur. “So, you’ve got anything in that car you shouldn’t have?” Coy and skeptical. Knowingly though wrongfully convinced.
“No, sir, I don’t.”
“Are you sure, now?”
“I’m positive.” Not for drug testing. Positive. Not my urine. Positive. That’s there’s nothing in the car.
This will become a theme.
I’m almost two months in. I’ve found some secret. A way to slow time. Though it’s also speeding by, at large. Always keep moving. Pinball movement. Perpetual velocity. Montreal feels a month ago. Middelbury a year. I don’t remember everywhere I’ve been, in chronological order. It all blurs, beautifully. It all beautifully blurs.
The 29th of October. An experiment. Esperanto Café. My favorite in NYC, and perhaps, transitively, the world. Open 24 hours. Though I’ve never been here at 4am, it’s always been comforting to know that I could be. Post-SideWalk Cafe Show, with November an Open Slate, no bookings ahead, I opt to stake out the café overnight. Just to sense the energy, the vibe, to see what characters might wander in ‘round 3:47 in the morning.
It appears, at first (1:53am), that the café stays open merely to be loyal to its motto: “always open”…NOT on account of demand or any sort of influx of customers.
Of course, I’m here, I imagine, in hopes that a beautiful femme, kindred and kind, might venture in somewhere between the hours of 2-3AM. And that this experiment might be draped with purpose, with love, with discovery, with connection, with reason and with forged fate. But, it won’t happen. Still, it doesn’t hurt to hope. And what alternate discoveries might be made in the process…
…Perhaps, that I shouldn’t have had three beers prior to such an outing, as drowsiness already overwhelms at 1:57. And I surrender to the night, to the cold street and the long subway ride, somewhere round 3AM. The café stayed empty, anyway.
October 29. New York City. Just played my last booked show of the tour, thus far. I now stand on the precipice of November (and the future, thereafter). Vacant and Void. Unbooked for reasons that need not be mentioned. Will chalk it up to complacency. And on account of not taking my own responsibility for my own career and plans. A lesson I always learn. Intimidated. This can’t happen if I’m to make it work. It’s shot wide open.
Yet enthralled, enticed, and embracing of the unknown. I’ve also a month of freedom, of the unexpected, of possibility. An undefined ocean of possibility. Though I oughta drop a few anchors. Some mere possibilities, momentary sketches come to mind. The entire nation is my chessboard. The unplanned is infinitely more satisfying than the pre-booked. Life-changing. Door-opening. Perhaps there’s no other way to traverse the country. Open to all options. No restrictions, save financial. Free to roam, whilst sipping the remaining funds through a straw at the bottom, the very floor of the financial well.